Fine Lines and Wrinkles: What Actually Causes Them, and Which Ingredients Have the Evidence

Fine lines and wrinkles are one of the most common skin concerns we hear about, and one of the most confusing to shop for. So here is the simple version: what causes them, and which ingredients actually have research behind them. Everything below focuses on the actives in the Propaira and Dermaceutic ranges we stock.

What causes fine lines and wrinkles

Three things, mostly.

1. Age

From our mid-twenties, skin slowly makes less collagen, the protein that keeps it firm and bouncy. This happens to everyone and it is completely normal.

2. Sun

This is the big one, especially in Australia. UV light breaks down collagen faster than your skin can rebuild it. Most of what we think of as "ageing" on the face is actually sun damage, which is why daily sunscreen is above everything else in this article.

3. Dehydration

Dry skin makes fine lines look deeper than they really are. This is the quickest thing to fix, often within days. Smoking, poor sleep and stress also play a part over time.

One thing worth knowing: a lot of what looks like fine lines is really just dehydration sitting on top of early collagen change. They need different products, which is why a good routine covers both.

The ingredients that work (and the research behind them)

Retinol: the gold standard

Find it in: Dermaceutic Activ Retinol 0.5 and 1.0, Propaira Retinol Plus 0.25%, Propaira 1% Retinol Cream.

Retinol helps skin renew itself and supports its own collagen. It is the most researched anti-ageing ingredient you can buy without a prescription. A 2023 review confirmed how it thickens and smooths ageing skin [1], and a 2025 analysis comparing anti-ageing ingredients head to head found retinol clearly improved the look of fine wrinkles [2].

How to use it: start with the lower strength, at night, 2 to 3 times a week. Build up slowly. A little dryness at first is normal and settles down. Always wear sunscreen the next day.

Vitamin C: the morning protector

Find it in: Dermaceutic C25 Cream, Propaira 25% Vit.C Serum, Propaira AOX Cream.

Vitamin C protects skin from the daily damage that leads to lines, and helps it make collagen. In a 2023 review of clinical trials, every study that measured skin surface found vitamin C left skin looking smoother and less wrinkled than a placebo [3, 4]. Use it in the morning, under sunscreen.

Hyaluronic acid: the fast fix

Find it in: Propaira Hyaluronic Acid 3.1% Extra Strength Serum.

Hyaluronic acid holds water in the skin, which plumps out the fine lines caused by dehydration. A 2022 clinical study measured visibly reduced wrinkles after just 30 days [5]. This is the fastest result on this list, and it makes everything else in your routine look better too.

Peptides: the gentle option

Find it in: Dermaceutic Derma Lift 5.0, Dermaceutic Reveal 4X Eye Serum.

Peptides are little messengers that tell skin to support its own collagen. A 2025 clinical study following a peptide complex for 56 days measured visible improvement in signs of ageing [6]. They are gentle, so they suit sensitive skin and work well on your nights off retinol.

Niacinamide: the all-rounder

Find it in: Propaira Skin Defence Serum (10%), Propaira 15% Niacinamide Plus Cream.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) strengthens the skin barrier and has trial evidence for smoother texture, more even tone and softer-looking fine lines [7]. It is one of the best-tolerated ingredients out there and plays nicely with everything else.

Lactic acid: the polisher

Find it in: Propaira Anti-Aging Night Cream (15% lactic acid), Dermaceutic Radiance Cream.

Lactic acid gently sweeps away dead surface cells so skin looks smoother and reflects light better. A 2023 review supports these acids for texture and skin renewal [8]. A great supporting act, not a replacement for retinol.

Your simple routine

Morning: cleanse → vitamin C → moisturiser → SPF 50+.

Night: cleanse → retinol (2 to 3 nights a week to start) → moisturiser. On other nights, swap retinol for peptides or hyaluronic acid.

Give it 12 weeks before judging your results, that is when retinol typically starts showing. Consistency beats intensity, every time.

Want faster results?

Home skincare maintains and protects. Professional treatments like skin peels, microdermabrasion and LED work deeper and speed things up. The two work best together. Not sure where to start? Our therapists offer a free virtual skin consultation and will build a routine around your skin.

Shop the edit

Everything mentioned above is in one place: Fine Lines & Wrinkles.

References

1. Quan T. Human skin aging and the anti-aging properties of retinol. Biomolecules. 2023;13(11):1614.
2. Comparative efficacy of topical interventions for facial photoaging: a network meta-analysis. Scientific Reports. 2025;15.
3. Clinical efficacy of topical vitamin C on the appearance of wrinkles: a systematic literature review. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2023;22(9):898.
4. Correia et al. Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: a systematic review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023.
5. Bravo B, et al. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: from literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatologic Therapy. 2022;35(12):e15903.
6. Anti-aging efficacy of a multi-peptides-silybin complex: mechanistic insights and a 56-day clinical evaluation. Cosmetics. 2025;12(5):223.
7. Cosmeceuticals for anti-aging: mechanisms, clinical evidence, and regulatory insights: a comprehensive review. Cosmetics. 2025;12(5):209.
8. Topical AHA in dermatology: formulations, mechanisms of action, efficacy, and future perspectives. Cosmetics. 2023;10(5):131.

This article is general information about skincare ingredients and is not personal medical advice. If you have a specific skin concern or condition, please speak with your GP, dermatologist or one of our therapists.